Touching Cloth

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So to continue, up at 7am (did someone mention we were on holiday), checkout of the superb Alpine Motor Lodge and round to get suited and booted for the glacier walk.

After donning rubber over trousers, hiking boots and socks, you get hats, waterproof coats and crampons, then onto a coach with the rudest of all guides who really has no interest in the fact you just paid 130NZD to go on a tour, because there is one pace, his, oh and his four year old daughter can do this walk better than any of yuse!! Enamoured not.

After a 15 min drive, then hike through a special bush trail that adds 25 mins to the walk, you make it to the fences where you can only pass if with a guide (for your safety and their pockets, cynic). A 10 min walk up an 80 foot gravel mountain (with our guide spurtin on ahead and no interest if anyone has died on the way), we then meet a slow guide who will take the less able of us on a more sedate walk, and one that will tell us things on the way (what a novelty). So useless guide gone off at a sprinting pace with the fool hardy following, on then with our crampons (yes you can actually put crampons on flip flops) and time to get wet. The half day tour is listed as “moderate” difficulty, mmmm, put it this way you need full upper and lower body strength, squeezing through some very narrow crevasses and at times relying solely on the crampons to stay upright.

After 2 hours you start to feel knackered, but the views are pretty spectacular (and no I don’t mean my physique either). Eventually you get to a clearing where you can have a breather and a snack, yes, err no, time to remove your crampons and prepare for the 1 hour hike back to the bus, where Mr Organised can’t even figure out which bus he is driving.

All told a worth while experience, but probably not one we’d repeat.

We Haast arrived here.

Touching the Void

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This is just part of the hike across the Franz Josef Glacier this morning. Talk about tiring and strenuous, but we did it. Now where’s that hot tub to chill in, eh?

Fran Josef Glacier, pah from here.

Climb Every Mountain

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Yup at 8.45am (NZ time), we will start our trek up Franz Josef Glacier. Oh Boy, cold, wet and tired will we be? Well for starters it’s chilly and tipping it down, so there’s two out of three before we start.

After that it’s a drive down to Haast for a good rest hopefully.

The Man that went up a mountain and came back knackered from here.

What Happens in Franz Josef, Stays in Franz Josef

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Yey Franz Josef in the pouring rain, but who cares. Booked into the Alpines Motor Lodge and upgraded FOC (nice), we wombled down to the Hot Pools, where there are 3 public baths (36, 38 and 40 degrees) and then you can upgrade to your own private pool for an hour, so we did.

Tomorrow at 8.45am we start our wobble up the glacier, so spare a thought for these two poor travellers hiking across a glacier while you are all 2 foot under snow.

Ready to hike the glacier from here.

Banjo Country Down to Franz Josef

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To continue the tale Mrs Fogg actually found out she had collected dirty pebbles from the beach not priceless stones, oh well who knew (pick me, pick me)

Onward then toward Franz Josef Glacier for our hike tomorrow. On the way we stopped at Pukepura which has the “Puke Pub” serving road kill BBQ (well it would if it hadn’t closed down).

Desperate to spend a penny Mrs Fogg went into the Bushman’s cafe opposite, who refused to let her use the facilities unless she bought something (indeed a sign read, “Not for public use, for customers only, if you have to use them it’s 50 cents per piss”, written in several languages).

In the Bushman’s Cafe they have all manner of signs up and it’s difficult to tell if they are tongue in cheek or genuine banjo strummers! Amongst some of the scrawled signs were “We sell coffee, not cappuccino or espresso or even that gay French latte, just coffee!” or “The hats are here to buy not for picture taking” or “If you are intending to try on a hat and walk around looking like an idiot, don’t bother”, coupled with a sign outside next to a bloodied guillotine stating “notice to all politicians, government bureaucrats, greedy corporate CEO’s, Rip off merchants, over paid bureaucrats (sucking off the tit), Remember the French Revolution Your Day is Coming”.

So continually looking over our shoulders for the wierd looking kid strumming his banjo we decided to beat a hasty retreat and Mrs Fogg heeded the advice by using the bush!

Not Squeeling Like Piggies from here.

It’s Hokitika Time

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Another restful evening listening to the sea crashing against the rocks all night long.

This morning up and out of Hokitika enroute to Franz Josef Glacier and Haast (bad joke time, if they have letters and parcels there, do they get them Post Haaste, sorry). First stop is Mrs Foggy to validate her beach rock as being a “real pebble”. After that it’s the Glacier slide, sorry walk experience.

Onwars and Downwars from here.

Driftwood City

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Today we arrived in Hokitika, a quaint little town on the West coast of NZ South Island. Hokitika is best known for its many artists and art shops selling Poumanu (the god stone of the Maori people), art works, carvings, paintings etc.

However Hokitika has a quirky side. A long beach is littered with driftwood and a mix of soft sand and washed up pebbles creating a dramatic beach where large waves crash wildly (even in calm weather) and a strong riptide which pushes the currents in many different directions. This alone is rugged and beautiful. Humans have made their mark here too.

The scatterings of driftwood and pebbles have been turned into works of beach art. An incredible array of sights greet visitors to the beach and create a unique backdrop to the majestic ocean. A driftwood cow grazes on sand, serpents with arched backs and pebble tails lurch from the sand, rings of plaited branches stand tall facing the oncoming tide, dragons and other unworldly creatures project from sand and pebbles. The whole view is surreal and is added to by visitors and locals alike.

The other unique thing Hokitika offers is the chance to go fossicking. This appears to be a New Zealand thing. So I went fossicking. This is where you comb the beach in search of gems and in the case of Hokitika the precious stone Pounamu (greenstone). Pounamu is now quite rare so lots of people and local artists scour the beaches for washed up pieces.

Fingers crossed I have found a piece. I can get it verified and officially certified while here. Maybe on return to the UK to have a go at making jewellery?

Lovelly place Hokitika. Very quirky and funky.

Fingers crossed

[Posted from Mrs Foggs super cool iphone]

All That Glitters…..

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Actually is GOLD in this case as Mrs Fogg eyes up this nugget in the local gold emporium in Hokitika.

This lump is actually 18,000NZD worth of the precious metal. It took the sales assistant several minutes to pry it out of Mrs Fogg’s fingers.

Meanwhile I tried to get another buzz cut done on my over grown baldy locks. With two strikes in two empty hairdressers it was not looking promising. Both proclaimed they were completely full and the earliest they could fit me in would be next Tuesday. In typical comedy sketch fashion I looked around both hairdressers and not a soul could be seen. I asked if they were really that busy “oh yes”, well can I use your trimmers to do my own head, “oh no, you need training”, REALLY! “yes sir it takes years to master the art. Given that New Zealand are crying out for hairdressers I can understand why now if these poor soles are rushed off their feet for a week. I can feel a job change coming, me a hairdresser and Mrs Fogg a plumber, then we can emigrate, now where did I put that pink floral shirt, open toed sandals and sarong sweety.

More Beach Walking from here.

Who ate all the pies?

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Pies seem to be a popular lunchtime favourite for Kiwis. All sorts of flavours but the most common are a mix of mince, mince & cheese, steak, steak & cheese and other combinations. Can you spot the theme here?

If you order one you get just that – a pie on your plate. We just had to try one for lunch today and since we stopped at a shed at the side of the road called the Gumboot cafe that offered either all day breakfasts or pies, pies and more pies. Pies it was.

Hmm, using the now immortal quote by Mr Fink “That was ok but I don’t want it again thanks”

I’ll revert back to my preferred lunch of sugary things washed down with more sugary things and cream.

Might have to consider a health kick on my return to blighty, buy bigger clothes or just stay here. Tough choices.

Mr Fogg has just gone all native too, no more trainers and socks it’s flip flops and bare feet all the way now. He’s even starting to sound like a Kiwi!

[Posted from Mrs Foggs super cool iphone]